A weekend in Oporto

For Suzannah Reuben,

How to get there? 

I know you like to travel by train. If you arrive in Lisbon, one of the best ways to get to Oporto is by taking the "Alfa Pendular" in Santa Apolónia or Estação do Oriente. It takes about 2h40 to arrive - this train is comfortable and the landscape is interesting. the train stops in Santarém and in Coimbra and in some other cities and towns along the way. When you are about to arrive in Oporto the train will cross the Douro River by "Ponte D. Maria", where you have a magnificent view over the city and then you will arrive at your destination (Campanhã Station). 

Another option to get to Oporto is by plane. Francisco Sá Carneiro Airport is really very modern and has flights  from the whole of Europe.

Where to stay?

I have some nice places where I like to stay in Oporto, depending on my mood!

1. If you want to be really close to the core of the city (Baixa), stay in the Grande Hotel do Porto (https://www.grandehotelporto.com/). It's a classic and good price wise. It's right in the most comercial street of the city, Rua de Santa Catarina, but inside you get a feeling of those old hotels, nice and quiet: the living rooms seem like an old English club, the dining room is big and with a certain air of Luis XVI. Try to get a room in the part that has not been recently renovated in brown (it is not as pleasant as the other) - if you have any problem call the reception and try to get Mr. António Moreira, he will help you.

2. A very good option, for an even better price is Casa Diocesana - Seminário de Vilar (https://www.seminariodevilar.pt/servicos-alojamento). It belongs to the church, but works like a hotel. It's also in a good part of the city, near a beautiful park called "Jardins do Palácio de Cristal" which you may enjoy (both the Casa and these gardens have magnificient views over the river Douro). You are not that far from "Baixa" by foot (maximum 20 min), and on the way you have one of the best museums of the city (Museu Soares dos Reis, Beaux Arts museum with 18th and 19th century paintings and sculptures) and also very close to Rua Miguel Bombarda with many contemporary art galleries.

3. You have also, of course, airbnb options. Try to be near Baixa/Sé/Ribeira (all in the centre).

Places to go (the essentials):

1. Torre dos Clérigos. When arriving at a new city I normally like to get to one high point, like a skyscraper or a tower to get an overview of the city. In the case of Oporto, I advise you to walk up the stairs of "Torre dos Clérigos", maybe the strongest symbol of Oporto.

 2. Avenida dos Aliados. Avenida dos Aliados is the central point of the city and its main square (where the Municipality is). It reminds me of Madrid... here is an old photo:

Go around the square and visit the old café "Guarani", have a coffee or even a lunch there (good steak). You can also sneak into the new hotel called "Le Monumental Palace" https://www.maison-albar-hotels-le-monumental-palace.com/pt/ and also into the Intercontinental Hotel https://intercontinental-porto-palacio-das-cardosas-hotel.hotel-ds.com/pt/ (this hotel is not shown in the above photo, because it is where the photo is taken from! It used to be the best hotel in the city). If you are in the mood of seeing nice hotels, go also to Hotel Infante Sagres, its decoration is beautiful:

3. Rua das Flores/Ribeira/Gaia. Close to Avenida dos Aliados, you have this pedestrian street called Rua das Flores, which goes down to Ribeira (UNESCO World Heritage). However, before entering the street go to S. Bento railway station as it's worthwhile to look at the "azulejos", in their beautiful blue and white colours. They show the history of Portugal. And then go down Rua das Flores: along your walk you will pass many artists selling their paintings or photos, while others sing... There are wonderful shops, like "Klaus Porto", an old brand of cosmetics that now sells to all parts of the world: in this special shop you will certainly be welcomed by the very friendly employees. There are also nice places to have a meal along the way, some with esplanades. But if you are not that hungry, proceed walking and go into "Igreja de São Francisco" which has one of the most incredible interiors in gold in Portugal!

Finally hungry?! Keep going down to "Ribeira" and find a table by the river. After your meal it´s time to do some exercise and cross the river to Gaia along "Ponte D. Luiz". The, if you want a magnificient view over Oporto city take the lift in "Porto Cruz" building and go to its rooftop! 

If you wish, also visit in Gaia one of the multiple wine cellars of Oporto wine.

 4. Sé and Episcopal Palace. Not far from the top of Rua das Flores and Estação de S. Bento, you have these two important buildings. Oporto city is manly a "burgomeister" city in contrast with aristocratic cities. Before the English invented the Oporto wine and made it successful, Oporto was a fishing city and its most prominent figure was the Bishop - we could say he was like the "Prince" of Oporto. That's why "Palácio Episcopal" is the main building in the city, magnificient in its grandeur. The romanic cathedral and this Palace are side by side and can both be visited with a combined ticket (you can buy it at Torre dos Clérigos).

5. Baixa do Porto. The area round Avenida dos Aliados is the "Baixa". Stroll up to Rua de S. Catarina (if you are not staying at Grande Hotel do Porto), the main commercial street of the city, a very vibrant and joyful place. Here you may find the "Majestic caffe" and international boutiques (a litle like everywhere else). "Mercado do Bolhão", the old market is near, but it is closed for deep renovation (it may take 2 years before opening again). Go to Rua Galerias de Paris and nearby streets. Here close you may find design shops (by local artists) and some other quality ones like "A Vida Portuguesa". Some people say that the most beautiful bookshop in the world is here: "Livraria Lello".  Don't miss it!

6. Good pastries/tea. If you are not on a diet try the pastries of Oporto (if you are, avoid them!). "Leitaria da Quinta do  Paço" in Praça Guilherme Gomes Fernandes (also in the Baixa) has good options (éclairs and other kinds of pastries), but you may also find good tea houses with pastries like the above referred "Majestic" and "A Brasileira" (renewed, with french-like interiors).

7. Art and Gardens. "Museu de Arte Contemporânea and Casa e Jardins de Serralves". It is absolutely impossible to go to Oporto and not go to this place. Here there is plenty to see and to sense: its buildings, its art exhibitions and its huge and beautiful gardens. It is located in another part of the city, near  Avenida da Boavista, so you should go by car.

Near Serralves, also visit the modern building of Rem Kolhas, "Casa da Música", the main music hall of the city (afterwards please give me your opinion of the building. People tend to have opposite opinions of it! It is supposed to be like a spaceship, landing in the urban sorroundings of Oporto, and even the square has an irregular pavement that symbolizes this landing from another planet):

If you succeed in doing these things, I think you might have a good first insight into this wonderful city of Oporto!